By Cynthia Dial
“I know Italy like my pockets,” said Giorgio Dell’Artino, owner of Dream Italy. “We are probably the smallest tour operator in the country, but my services are never a combination of two numbers.”
Traveling north from Rome to Tuscany you can see the countryside change from the bustle of one of Europe’s primary capital cities to the leisure of a rural region – rolling hills, precision-perfect cypresses, rows of ancient olive trees and lines of productive grapevines.
In the area known for Brunello di Montalcino wines we bypass Castello Banfi (one of Italy’s biggest wine producers) in route to a small, family-owned, top-quality operation – Poggi Rabino. Here it’s not uncommon to encounter the owner, Edward Corsi, and his mother-in-law and family nonna, Roberta Marzocchi Salvadori, to talk wines over a tasting of their vinos.
Siena, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is built on three hills. Undisturbed by World War II, it’s a treasure, whose bi-annual tradition, the Palio (a bareback horse race three times around Piazza del Campo), represents the region’s hottest ticket for the city’s locals and its guests.
“Buongiorno, are you ready for your tour of Tuscany,” greeted Dell’Artino before opening the door of a fire-red Ferrari (one of the 18 luxury-car fleet, including Maseratis, Lamborghinis, McLarens and one of the world’s few Bugattis, available to Dream Italy). As president of Fai-Confcommercio, the biggest union of limousine drivers in Italy, he has access to more than 1,300 drivers throughout the country.
The setting is distinctive. Its ancient town called Sassi di Matera (stones of Matera) is known for its cave dwellings, caves in which its populace once lived in poverty. Now the place to be, Sassi showcases layer upon layer of history within its layer upon layer of caves (many modernized current residences and many converted into one-of-a-kind lodging).
As all good things must come to an end, what better route to return to Rome from Matera’s southern Italy location than the Amalfi Coast. Multi-colored terraced towns on one side, the Mediterranean far below on the other, you’ll share the narrow, winding road with buses, bicyclists, motor scooters, even pedestrians. Best illustrated by our dialogue – “See that island? It’s Capri,” and “Do you want to stop for gelato?” – its offerings are like no other.
All too soon, road signage bade me farewell. “Arrivederci, Goodbye,” I read as we veered from the coastal road back to reality.
Imagine touring the Vatican’s private hallways
with a seminarian and by happenstance meeting the Pope, attending a private
party for Il Ballo del Doge, the Venetian masquerade ball during Carnival, or watching
Siena’s famous Palio horse race from the balcony of a princess’s private apartment.
Do you see a pattern here?
Amalfi Coast
This is luxury at its VIP peak – the type of exclusivity I specifically sought
on a recent visit to Italy. “I know Italy like my pockets,” said Giorgio Dell’Artino, owner of Dream Italy. “We are probably the smallest tour operator in the country, but my services are never a combination of two numbers.”
Like a matchmaker, Dell’Artino has made a
career of pairing his country’s guests with their dreams. High-profile examples
include Bob Dole’s tour of World War II sites, Rick Steves’ research visit and
comedian Jeff Foxworthy and his wife’s hot air balloon ride over Tuscany before
landing in a sunflower-blanketed field for a picnic.
Traveling north from Rome to Tuscany you can see the countryside change from the bustle of one of Europe’s primary capital cities to the leisure of a rural region – rolling hills, precision-perfect cypresses, rows of ancient olive trees and lines of productive grapevines.
In the area known for Brunello di Montalcino wines we bypass Castello Banfi (one of Italy’s biggest wine producers) in route to a small, family-owned, top-quality operation – Poggi Rabino. Here it’s not uncommon to encounter the owner, Edward Corsi, and his mother-in-law and family nonna, Roberta Marzocchi Salvadori, to talk wines over a tasting of their vinos.
Nonna Rogerta Marzocchi Salvadori
Frantoio Franci, a family-run olive farm in Montenero, is renowned as Italy’s most
awarded olive oil producer (more than 300 awards) since its 1996 debut on the
commercial market. Upon opening a bottle, owner Giorgio Franci affectionately
remarked, “You can smell Tuscany.” Beyond learning the art of olive oil tasting
(note: slurping involved), our treat was meeting founder, 86-year-old Fernando
Franci, who shared that his biggest regret was not learning English.
Fernando Franci
Lunch at Il Grappolo Blu, a typical trattoria, best showcased the region. Found
off a tiny walkway in the town of Montalcino, it seemed a secret, though not to
Dell’Artino, a friend of the owner, Luciano. Siena, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is built on three hills. Undisturbed by World War II, it’s a treasure, whose bi-annual tradition, the Palio (a bareback horse race three times around Piazza del Campo), represents the region’s hottest ticket for the city’s locals and its guests.
Siena
However, it is underground Siena – known by many but experienced by few – that most
captures my attention. Closed to the public, I’m privileged to be escorted into
the town’s library and enter through an obscure locked metal gate to descend
beneath the city into its ancient aqueduct system and underground passageways.
My sole regret: lack of time to follow the path to its end where you ascend
from a manhole-like cover, popping up into the central square. “Buongiorno, are you ready for your tour of Tuscany,” greeted Dell’Artino before opening the door of a fire-red Ferrari (one of the 18 luxury-car fleet, including Maseratis, Lamborghinis, McLarens and one of the world’s few Bugattis, available to Dream Italy). As president of Fai-Confcommercio, the biggest union of limousine drivers in Italy, he has access to more than 1,300 drivers throughout the country.
Tuscan tour by Ferrari
As we zipped along Via Chiantigiana, the motor route between Siena and
Florence, we dissected the region’s Chianti Classico wine zone, detoured to the
tiny town of Vertine (an intact, walled Etruscan village dating back to the 10th
century) and stopped in Panzano in Chianti, home of famed celebrity butcher,
Dario Cecchini, who serves up freshly-carved beef as classical music plays and
patrons sample cured meats and red wine. 
Dario Cecchini
From wending through the countryside to soaring above it, the day concluded in
a hot air balloon ride over Siena. High above the Tuscan countryside, we observed
the city at sunset, heard dogs barking and tracked a spooked wild boar running
beneath us. To borrow from the local language, it was magnifico. 
Hot air balloon ride over Siena
Once again on the road, our course was a day’s journey south to Matera, a city
known by few but treasured by all who pass this way. So remote is this
destination – no airport, no train and no freeway (simply a secondary road) –
it is not a place you happen upon. However, its upcoming recognition as the
European City of Culture in 2019 ensures future international acknowledgement,
making my discovery perfectly timed.The setting is distinctive. Its ancient town called Sassi di Matera (stones of Matera) is known for its cave dwellings, caves in which its populace once lived in poverty. Now the place to be, Sassi showcases layer upon layer of history within its layer upon layer of caves (many modernized current residences and many converted into one-of-a-kind lodging).
Matera
“Be prepared to be impressed,” I’m forewarned as I open the door to Room 1004
of L’hotel in Pietra. Though I expected Matera’s lodging to be less than traditional,
I did not foresee such luxury within a converted 12th century
Benedictine church built into and over the caves. Designed to emanate the spirit
of the town, the suite is multi-levels – showcasing a cave-ensconced bathroom
(a partial Plexiglas floor partition reveals a long ago cave dwelling) and its
upper bedroom level opens to a window-fronted sitting area featuring the sounds
and scenery of Matera.
View from Room 1004 of L'hotel in Pietra
To best appreciate the town’s many facets, stroll it. Pass through the alleyway
that is featured in Mel Gibson’s The
Passion of the Christ. Wander into Piazza del Sedile, site of the
Conservatory of Music, where melodies of practicing students waft from gaping
windows. Be one of the first to step inside Matera Cathedral. Closed 11 years
for renovation, the church opens to the public in March. As all good things must come to an end, what better route to return to Rome from Matera’s southern Italy location than the Amalfi Coast. Multi-colored terraced towns on one side, the Mediterranean far below on the other, you’ll share the narrow, winding road with buses, bicyclists, motor scooters, even pedestrians. Best illustrated by our dialogue – “See that island? It’s Capri,” and “Do you want to stop for gelato?” – its offerings are like no other.
Positano
Driving through such cliff-perched towns as Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento, my
just-passing-through trip served only to whet my appetite for everything
Italiano. “You must come back to Sorrento for a cooking class. It’s in the
garden of a private villa,” tempted Dell’Artino. “It is the only one not in the
kitchen of a professional school, so it is very special – especially its views
of Capri.” All too soon, road signage bade me farewell. “Arrivederci, Goodbye,” I read as we veered from the coastal road back to reality.
Photos by Cynthia Dial
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