By Cynthia Dial as appeared in JustLuxe.com
The first time I
visited Quebec City was magical. It was January, my purpose was to experience Winter
Carnival and I returned in love with Canada’s wedding-cake white wonderland. My
reappearance – a 180-degree departure in time – was in July for its Tall Ships Regatta
along the Saint Lawrence River.
Photos by Cynthia Dial
Imagine a weekend replete
with approximately 40 around-the-world tall mast sailing vessels, 3,000
international sailors in dress uniform and all the revelry surrounding such an
event – from its opening day Parade of Ship Crews and onboard visits to its
closing night’s fireworks show and following morning’s Sail-Away of the Tall Ships
toward Ile d’Orleans.
Though opposite in
timing and different in tone, the two visits underscore some of Quebec City’s
most fetching lures – around-the-calendar options and regardless-of-season
optimism. It was a local who summated the country’s go-with-the-flow attitude:
“We don’t see the glass as half empty or half full. For us, it’s always full.”
Follow me for a
peek into the best of a city that is positively charming, whenever and wherever
you go. Though situated little more than 150 miles east of Montreal and almost 3,300
miles west of Paris, the 3,475 square-mile municipality is decidedly French. Home
to more than 700,000 residents – 95 percent of whom are native French speakers
– here you’ll find summer window boxes overflowing with flowers, cafes serving
crepes and croissants (and in cold weather, the hot alcoholic drink, Caribou)
and cobblestone streets everywhere.
Quebec City began in
the early 1600s as a fur trading post (a continued main staple, fur boutiques are
abundant), its founding father was French explorer Samuel de Champlain and
Louis XIV transformed the once simple outpost into a French provincial capital
of North America. Now, 400 years later, the effect of multiple battles with the
British Empire throughout its history remains apparent in its appealing French
and British mix.
A contemporary
example of preeminent North America coupled with European cachet best describes
Quebec City – a modern day town with minimal crime, low unemployment and few
miles to the countryside. Additionally blessed with a walled Old Town replete
with quaint, narrow streets bursting with celebrated monuments, ethnic eateries
and Quebecois-style boutiques, it was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage
Site in 1985 for this encircling past.
Within its walls
and overlooking the Saint Lawrence River, Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac dramatically
sits atop the city’s cliff as if a lighthouse protecting the waterway and
beckoning travelers to stop and stay. Historically as colorful as its setting, the
hotel was built in the late 19th century as a luxurious stopover for
passengers of the Canadian Pacific Railway, named for Count Frontenac (a notable
governor of New France) and was the setting of the World War II conference
attended by U.S. President Franklin Roosevelt, British Prime Minister Winston
Churchill and Canadian Prime Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King at which
D-Day was planned.
The Chateau, as the
hotel is affectionately called by locals, is at the center of Quebec City’s activity
with Dufferin Terrace and the Champlain Monument at its back door. Dufferin
Terrace is the wooden walkway adjacent to the cliff’s edge that runs beyond the
length of the hotel and attracts runners, strollers, singles, families, locals
and tourists alike.
Anchored at one
end by the Champlain Monument, the base of this landmark duplicates a stage.
Featuring street performers – from euphonious singers to gymnastic-inspired
routines – this is Quebec-style entertainment. As signage reads: “Street
performing is a tradition recognized by the city of Quebec.”
Taken
from Buckingham Palace’s ritual, the Changing of the Guard at the Citadelle parade
grounds is the ceremonial relief of the garrison’s on-duty guards by their
replacement sentries (all attired in scarlet military dress and tall bearskin
hats). Complete with music of the Regimental Band and the guard’s mascot,
Batisse the Goat, this is a long-standing tradition since 1928.
Nearby is the
250-acre Plains of Abraham. The site of a major battle and former municipal
airport (Charles Lindbergh landed here), this city park and prime gathering
spot attracts 1,000,000 annual visitors. Whether it’s the setting of Winter
Carnival, the summer venue of concerts (think Paul McCartney and Celine Dion)
or simply locals’ favorite outdoor scene for picnics and people watching, it’s
analogous to New York’s Central Park and Hyde Park of London.
A stairway, albeit
a steep one, goes from Upper Town’s sites to Lower Town. Reached from the
staircase near the Champlain Monument or by funicular, this cable car ride –
representing one of the continent’s only such means of transportation and one
of the region’s oldest businesses (1879) – operates along the cliffside at a
45-degree angle.
At its base is
Quartier Petit-Champlain. Once a tiny portside village of trading posts, today
it is a restored refuge of back-in-the-day homes and one-of-a-kind storefronts.
The Leonardo DiCaprio movie, “Catch Me If You Can” was filmed here and its
thoroughfare and North America’s oldest avenue, Little Champlain, was once
voted Canada’s most beautiful street.
Lower Town is also
the setting of innumerable and incomparable restaurants. Cochon Dingue (Crazy
Pig) is a local favorite, so expect to wait. But with such treats as seafood
pot pie and sugar pie (voted “best in town”), it’s worthy of a time commitment.
Its sister restaurant Le Lepin Sauté (Carefree Rabbit) is where to dine for
rabbit meat and duck, and in warmer weather its patio is unbeatable.
If splurging, a
meal “must” is Laurie Raphael. Featuring weekly menu changes, choices are based
on themes – ever evolving, always authentic. Even one’s arrival is unique.
After a walk through the kitchen (offering the opportunity to see Chef Raphael
in action) and a cocktail in the lounge, prepare for a dining event. Little
wonder it’s been said: “When you eat at Laurie Raphael, you taste Quebec.”
Situated steps
from the river, Lower Town projects a different vibe from the remainder of the
city. Among its exclusive overnight choices are Auberge Saint-Antoine (Quebec
City’s only Relais & Chateaux) and its restaurant, Chez Muffy – a
farm-to-table eatery embellished by cozy seating, stone walls and wooden beams
– both situated in a 19th century warehouse.
In the end, whether
one’s preference is Lower Town not Upper Town, within the walls versus outside
the walls or summer over winter, the best way to enjoy the many facets of
Quebec City is from a variety of perspectives. So, whether from a boat on the
Saint Lawrence or the cliff overlooking the renowned waterway to a helicopter
above both – this is a destination for everyone at any time.
#travel #travelingcynthia #traveltips #ohcanada #quebeccity
