Tuesday, May 16, 2017
by Cynthia Dial as seen in TravelSquire.com
It’s not that high I tell myself after committing to be the first to climb a rope ladder to the crow’s nest of a tall sailing ship – my home on water for a week. Not one to break my word (at least not with so many witnesses), I’m secured into a safety harness, place one footstep above another in my steady ascension of the ship’s mast and am pulled up onto a wooden platform to be greeted by an unparalleled reward – a 360-degree bird’s eye view of the Mediterranean Sea from atop the Star Flyer.
A member of the Star Clippers’ fleet, the Star Flyer is one of this family of three (soon to be four) of the world’s largest and tallest sailing vessels. Back-in-the-day-style boats equipped with 21st century yacht-like lures, the fleet’s inception began as a love affair between Swedish owner and lifetime yachtsman, Mikael Krafft, and the classic sailing clipper ships that reigned the waves throughout the 1800s. In the book Star Clipper Saga, he explains: “In 1987 I decided to build a genuine large sailing ship with the wind as the most important source of power. No one had ever done that for almost a hundred years. The ship should resemble old clippers in hull, yet be designed to accommodate some 150 guests. In my new clipper, I wanted to include all the romance of sail and style that you find in a large sailing yacht.”
Four years later in 1991 his dream became a reality with the introduction of the Star Flyer (175 passengers/74 crew/16 sails). A year later its sister ship, Star Clipper, entered the scene. In 2000 five-masted, full rigger Royal Clipper (227 passengers/106 crew/42 sails) set sail; and debuting late 2017 is the Flying Clipper (300 passengers/140 crew/35 sails).
As a sailing ship, the rules are different but the experiences are exceptional – so with wind in my hair and a salty breeze in my face, I dive in. Unlike most cruises, Star Flyer has an open bridge policy. Serving up the opportunity to observe the captain and crew at work -- from charting the courses to maneuvering the controls – the only restriction is to request permission to enter. Then there’s lying in the bowsprit’s trapeze-like netting suspended mere feet above the water as the ship skims the waves toward its next port (color me jealous when a previous passenger recounts her bowsprit venture alongside a pod of dolphins).
Even port departures deliver dramatic memories. With all hands on deck and all passengers on board, sheets flap and sails unfurl as they scale the ship’s four masts to the background music of Vangelis, 1492: Conquest of Paradise – and the Star Flyer sets sail.
Departing from Barcelona, anticipation is high for our upcoming week at sea and visits to such Mediterranean magnets as Palma and Mahon, Spain, Bonifacio and Calvi on the French island of Corsica and finally St-Tropez. At embarkation, there’s live music – it’s Peter (Slovakia) on the keyboard playing Beyond the Sea. As cruise director Steffi (Germany) says, “A ship without music is impossible.” Our welcome aboard drink, named Bon Voyage (each day features its own bar specialty), is liberally served as Captain Mariusz Szalek (Poland) greets all who step onto the high-gloss deck of the ship’s al fresco Tropical Bar. One word describes the atmosphere: addictive.
During initial exploration of the intimate ship, I discover a cozy library, a beckoning piano bar and several salt water pools (all fleet-wide standards). Reflective of Star Clippers’ rich maritime heritage, the décor is nautical – antique-like fabrics, artwork of famous sailing vessels, expansive teak decks, gleaming mahogany railing and polished brass appointments. Yet, regardless of the comfortable amenities typically found on traditional ships, each of the Star Clippers’ fleet is also small enough to visit off-the-beaten-path, inaccessible-to-larger-liner ports; and intimate enough for guests to readily know one another.
Passengers and sailors Jan and Mike English, Princeton, Illinois, transfer their affection for sailing their 33-foot boat on Lake Michigan in their downtime to sailing with the Star Flyer during vacation time. They additionally appreciate the vessel’s comparatively diminutive size (175 passengers) in contrast to today’s ships carrying thousands of guests. “Mike would never cruise on a mega-liner,” says Jan. “We prefer ships with 200 passengers or less and love making friends from all over the world.”
In agreement are the English’s newly-acquired friends, Louise and Rafi Glaser, Sydney, Australia. Veterans of 25 cruises, including a 3,500-passenger ship, Rafi says of the experience: “We didn’t like it. To me, it’s the informal, intimate ease of the Star Flyer that I most enjoy.”
With no casino, no musical revues and no rigid schedule – only the reward of unconstrained time to do nothing or to sample everything – here are some low-key, Star Flyer-style options: learning the art of napkin folding from the wait staff, the secret to cocktail mixing with the bartender and the skill of knot-tying with a deck cadet. For on-deck participatory types, there’s pulling the lines and hoisting the sails; and if it’s a beach day, activities range from swimming and windsurfing to waterskiing, kayaking and snorkeling. With casual elegance as the dress code (no formal gowns or black-ties required) – even packing seems a timesaver.
“This is a sailing ship, so I know you want to sail,” announces Captain Szalek during his first-day introduction. “You can trust that as much as we can, we will be sailing.” His explanation as to why the Star Flyer is sometimes under power: “There’s no bad wind – there’s either no wind or there’s wind – all you need is time,” which for a ship with a set itinerary can sometimes be a limited commodity.
That said, here’s the line-up of ports and each stops’ prime perks:
Barcelona – A city of matchless magnets, from Antoni Gaudi to Pablo Picasso, and such quirky draws as a shoe museum and a chocolate museum, Barcelona has something for everyone. The Picasso Museum features the country’s best collection of the artist’s masterpieces and handiworks of the famous architect, Gaudi, are equally plentiful.
They include Sagrada Familia (called “a church in progress” because though he worked on it from 1883 until his 1926 death, it remains incomplete); Casa Milà, once described as “the famous melting-ice-cream creation,” and Casa Batlió, which is known for its almost exclusively curved construction. All define the superlative of creativity and all are lavishly adorned. After viewing his creations, it seems inconceivable that the word ‘gaudy’ isn’t derived from the architect’s surname (though there is no connection).
Las Ramblas, one of Europe’s most famous streets, is one of Barcelona’s best known tourist haunts. A lively tree-lined pedestrian walkway with distractions at every intersection, one delicious detour is La Boqueria Market to sample the local food and drink.
Tip: Observe (or better yet, participate in) one of this Catalan region’s most characteristic traditions – the Sardana dance. Forming a circle, participants hold hands, raise their arms in slow motion (think Zorba the Greek) and sway to the music for one to two hours.
Palma de Mallorca – Known for its old town’s meandering alleyways that are punctuated with busy plazas, old aristocratic mansions, horse-drawn carriage rides, cafes and coffee shops, it is also the home of its famous namesake pearl.
Sightseeing should include the Cathedral, Spain’s second largest Gothic church, and its hillside Bellver Castle – if for nothing else than its views.
Tip: Explore and enjoy Palma by imbibing its food and drink scene – from paella and sangria to hot chocolate and ensaimada crema (a spiral-shape Mallorcan pastry with a rich cream cheese filling).
Mahón – Its colorful history – an 80-year British occupation – remains reflective today, whether it’s the capital city’s four-story Georgian townhouses, its citizens’ affinity for gin or its English-speaking residents. From port, a steep walk up several flights of steps is necessary to reach the town center; but the reward of this StairMaster-like effort is a panorama of this island of Minorca.
Tip: Take home a piece of Mahón – it’s known for leather goods (particularly its own distinct style of shoes), local cheeses, gin and wine.
Bonifacio – To reach the town, it is necessary to sail between two stony promontories on Southern Corsica. Just as in olden times, it is a demonstration of seamanship that excludes many larger cruise ships. Comprised of an upper town and lower town, each has its own character. Two gates mark the entrance into the upper town’s medieval village – a network of narrow cobbled streets, charming squares and intimate eateries. Lower town sits by the marina and features a trendier scene, complete with cafes and boutiques.
Tip: For a less-than-three-euro investment, walk the Escalier du Roi d’Aragon (King Aragon Steps) – a staircase cut into the stone, perched over the sea and hugging the cliff. Consisting of 187 steep steps, legend says it was originally carved by soldiers overnight during the siege of 1420. Regardless of its origins, its prize is a priceless view of the Mediterranean.
Calvi – One of Corsica’s most northern points, it too has an upper and lower town. The upper town centers around its ancient citadel, and its lower town is replete with cafes, boutiques and a seaside promenade. However, Calvi is also known for its surrounding hills covered with olive, citrus and fig trees. A popular side trip, by taxi or even motor scooter, is to the ancient village of Sant’Antonino. One of the island’s oldest inhabited towns and named one of France’s “most beautiful villages,” perched on a small mountaintop, it is visible for miles.
Tip: Grab a beachside table at one of the many restaurants alongside the lower town’s harbor for prime people watching and delicious downtime.
St-Tropez – Of this tony town’s reputation for over-the-top opulence, it’s been said: “If you came here for history or quaintness, you caught the wrong yacht.” Founded by artists, it wasn’t until Brigitte Bardot’s 1956 film, “And God Created Woman” that it became synonymous with the Riviera’s glamour. Though its populace is 5,700 year-round residents, each summer translates to a deluge of 100,000-plus daily visitors. This is the scene: pastel tinted houses, boutiques with such names as Brigitte B and Vintage Tiffany and bling everywhere.
Tip: To get the feel of the residents’ St-Tropez, head to the town’s central park, Place des Lices, and observe a serious game of boules every day or the popular flea market on Tuesdays and Saturdays.
Photos by Cynthia Dial
Bottom line: Though not your standard cruise ship, Star Flyer is loaded with crossover appeal – for typical travelers, it’s distinctive; for seasoned sailors, it’s comfortable and for eternal explorers, it’s the epitome.
#travel #traveltuesday #travelingcynthia #traveltips #mediterraneancruise #cruising
Tuesday, May 2, 2017
The world-famous lights at Piccadilly Circus in London will remain switched off for the longest period of time since the Second World War.
Photo by Cynthia Dial
On Monday, this week, the lights on the six billboards went dark as the property company that owns the popular tourist site plans to replace them with a state-of-the-art single digital screen. According to the owner, Land Securities, the approximately 8,500-square-foot screen will be the largest in Europe and will retain the curved shape and patchwork appearance of the current lights.
The lights will go back on in the fall when they will be linked with high-speed Wi-Fi network where it will display the live-stream events from across the globe.
#TravelTuesday #travel #traveltips #travelingcynthia #london #travia #piccadillycircus
Saturday, April 29, 2017
Friday, April 14, 2017
Friday, March 31, 2017
Singapore’s Changi Airport named best in the world—for the fifth time
Excerpted from Afar.com by Matt Vallano
Perhaps it’s time to consider Singapore's Changi Airport the “New York Yankees of air travel.” How else could one spin the news that Lion City’s largest airport has been named best in the world for the fifth consecutive year?
The designation came down earlier this month from Skytrax World Airport Awards, an independent annual evaluation that bases the final rankings on the results of millions of international passenger surveys. This year was the sixth annual Skytrax awards; Changi has five first-place victories and one second-place win (back in 2012).
It’s not hard to see why fliers could consider the three-terminal airport to be the air travel equivalent of the winningest sports franchise of all time. In addition to being one of the busiest hubs in Asia, Changi boasts two 24-hour movie theaters that show current releases for free, a rooftop swimming pool (complete with locker rooms for changing), and a butterfly garden teeming with butterflies.
The airport is also putting the finishing touches on a fourth terminal, which, according to the Straits Times, a Singaporean newspaper, is slated to open later this year.
There were other highly lauded airports in the running, too: Tokyo Haneda International Airport, Incheon International Airport in Seoul, Munich International Airport and Hong Kong International Airport rounded out the Top Five. (Haneda also won an award for the world’s cleanest airport, and Hong Kong was hailed has having the best and most varied dining options.)
Sadly—embarrassingly, really—not a single North American airport cracked the Top 10. In fact, the highest-ranked airport on our continent is Vancouver International Airport in Canada, at No. 13.
The United States isn’t represented on the Skytrax list until No. 26, an honor that goes to the Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky International Airport. (The dark horse win seems like a great piece of trivia to whip out at your next soirée.) Denver International Airport was tabbed as No. 28.
It’s hard not to read the Skytrax list of winners and dream about what U.S. airports could be. The takeaways: We need more free movie theaters. Or at least a few butterfly gardens.
#travel #traveltips #travelingcynthia #worldsbestairports
by Cynthia Dial for TraveLife Magazine
From its rolling green hills to flower-box accessorized homes to a landscape dotted with water everywhere, Saguenay – Lac-Saint-Jean had me at ‘bonjour.’
A region – not a town – the vibe of this area almost four times the size of Belgium is so surprisingly cozy that locals call it “a small village at the end of the road.” Comprised of Lac-Saint-Jean and the Fjord-du-Saguenay, the destination is large, diverse and comfortably isolated (a one-and-a-half-hour flight from Montreal; a two-hour drive from Quebec City); but its overflow of down-to-earth experiences and out-of-the-norm adventures makes whatever effort necessary to reach it – worth it.
Adventure is in this region’s DNA. Winter season entertains ice skaters, ice fishermen, downhill and cross-country skiers and dogsledders, while warmer weather appeals to hikers, fishermen, beluga whale watchers, boaters, kite surfers and with 700 km of road biking lanes and 200 km of mountain bike trails, it’s a cyclist’s dream.
The 257-km Véloroute des Bleuets (Blueberry Trail) – which wends around Lac-Saint-Jean, crisscrosses 15 municipalities and enters countless villages, with interspersed treks through farmland and forests – attracts more than 200,000 annual cycling enthusiasts. With five microbreweries on La Route des Bières (The Beer Route), be forewarned that the only thing missing from this fun-filled trail may be a designated driver.
Beyond these active temptations, some of the area’s most popular ventures include the word “bear.” Okwari Aventures is where black bears can be observed from a watchtower in their natural habitat (of the region’s 3,500 black bears, 30 are here). With assistance from a guide, visitors can hike the area, learn about the world of beavers and salmon and ride along the water in a Rabaska canoe. To maximize a bear watching visit, it’s good to know that between the end of June and mid-July cubs are prevalent and September’s blueberry season is a delicious attraction for the mammals.
Then there’s the 26-hour, bear-filled VIP tour and overnight stay called “Adventure in the Land of the Caribou.” Located within Zoo Sauvage de Saint-Félicien (named one of the world’s most beautiful zoos and home to more than 1,000 animals from 75 native or exotic species), the experience is unique in an opposite sort of way – the animals roam free while its VIP guests are “enclosed.” During the venture, a ride in an elevated, open-air, protected trolley train through its 324-hectre Nature Trail Park section can be stop and go. As it’s in an area where bears (alongside such large North American mammals as elk, bison and deer) roam freely and continually wander along the road, cross it and sometimes block it, the most valuable visitor advice is cue the cameras.
The wrap-up of this VIP adventure includes an old-fashioned meal cooked over an open fire, a finale of s’mores and an overnight within a prospector tent tucked into a sleeping bag atop a bed of balsam needles. There are no showers and no flush toilets, simply an exceptionally clean outhouse (no, that is not a typo), the opportunity to bottle fed a baby moose and the possibility of an unannounced up-close-and-personal caribou greeting anytime, anywhere within the campsite. The rules are simple: Always walk in a group, never wander off and rely on good old-fashioned common sense.
“Creative adventure” best describes the assortment of accommodations found in Saguenay – Lac-Saint-Jean. In addition to the within-the-zoo stay is Parc Aventures Cap Jaseux’s variety of high-energy adventures and assortment of overnight possibilities – from accommodation in a tree house eight meters above ground to a stay in a huge fiberglass bubble dome (windows cover a third of its surface) to sleeping in a suspended sphere – all perched in pine trees and all featuring panoramic views of the Saguenay Fjord. Awaking within the woods (actually overlooking it) is like no other ‘good morning.’ There are no hotel-like amenities; but the outhouse is again impressive.
Activities can be negotiating the tree-to-tree ropes course, propelling along the park’s nine zip lines, tackling the via ferrata (imagine climbing a sheer cliff above the fjord) or, my selection, early-morning sea kayaking in the fjord. Jerome, our kayak guide, describes this on-the-water choice “always different, never the same,” citing the ever-changing variables of tide, wind and group number. “But it is always special,” he concludes.
A more subdued but no less distinctive immersion into the region’s past is an overnight in a ghost town, the historic village of Val-Jalbert. A booming, thriving pulp mill company town from the 1920s (at its 1926 peak there were 950 residents), one couldn’t even visit during its decades-long closure. However, these days its recreation of the back-in-the-day town and the natural site on which it sits lure thousands of annual visitors.
Among Val-Jalbert’s irresistible enticements are 40 original buildings seemingly frozen in time, 24 rooms situated in its turn-of-the-century houses now converted to 21st -century luxury accommodations, the general store, convent school, post office and walk-about “residents” in character – perhaps Mother Superior in route to school or the mayor’s daughter riding her bicycle along its main street. Additionally appealing is Val-Jalbert’s unparalleled natural beauty. The draw of its paper pulp past, 55-meter high Ouiatchouan Falls, surpasses Niagara Falls.
My departure arrives all too soon. As I bid farewell to this area of which I knew little but to which I instantly bonded, I reflect upon my Quebecois adventure. Aboard the small airplane, I turn to my seatmate, a local named Andre – until now a stranger. “In few words, can you describe this area – your home?” I quiz. He replies in three: “I love it.”
Just The Facts
~ French is widely spoken and English is spoken sporadically; but should there be a language barrier, no problem. In typical Saguenay-fashion, it’s in a local’s nature to find someone to help.
~ It is important to note that many of Saguenay – Lac-Saint-Jean’s attractions and accommodations are seasonal and fill quickly, so book well in advance to avoid disappointment.
~ For tourist information on Saguenay – Lac-Saint-Jean, go to www.saguenaylacsaintjean.ca.
#travel #traveltips #travelpics #travelingcynthia #canadaadventure #saguenaylacsaintjean
Sunday, March 19, 2017
Many airlines are reintroducing free inflight meals for all fare classes.
By Ramsey Qubein for AFAR.com
Since the dawn of modern air travel, wisecracks about airplane food have been the fodder of comedians worldwide. But those jokes are losing some of their punch as airlines begin to reinvest in the onboard dining experience for everyone. Sure, there are buy-onboard inflight menus with top-notch restaurant and celebrity chef partnerships. But when it comes to meals included in the cost of your ticket (either in front or behind the curtain), fliers will find that some airlines are stepping up their game to bring a more delicious element to air travel.
Premium transcontinental routes lead the way
In the past few months, we have seen many airlines make notable investments in the inflight product. Delta made a big splash when it announced free economy- class meals coming to select transcontinental flights earlier this year. The free meals are being offered not only on premium routes between JFK and Los Angeles or San Francisco, but also on several other long domestic flights. Passengers in economy class will have three options to choose from, including a vegetarian selection or deli sandwiches with chips.
Routes with this new amenity include those between Boston and Los Angeles, Seattle/Tacoma, and San Francisco; between JFK and Portland, Oregon, San Diego, and Seattle/Tacoma; and between Seattle/Tacoma and Fort Lauderdale, Orlando, and Raleigh/Durham among others. This signals a return of inflight meals for everyone as in the 1990s—which, while only a small step, is certainly an appreciated one.
American quickly followed suit announcing it would bring back free meals on its premium flights between JFK and Los Angeles and San Francisco, but the carrier stops short from expanding it to other flights. Still, a free meal for a busy traveler is always a nice perk.
It’s not just long flights getting a free dining boost. JetBlue has introduced free coffee and Turkish simit (similar to a bagel) with spread plus free beer and wine on its short shuttle runs between Boston and New York LaGuardia.
It’s all about the presentation
While the free economy meals are likely to come in a bag or box on these domestic runs, premium cabin meals get more attention. Effective April 1, Delta will be updating the service ware used on its domestic and international flights, featuring new plates, glasses, and silverware from designer Alessi. The Italian company is known for its fashionable designs using bone china, crystal glassware, and stainless steel. The Alessi pieces will look great with the airline’s artsy new Delta One meal offerings designed by chef Dan Jackson, who also oversees the menu at New York’s Museum of Modern Art.
Not to be outdone, United is launching its first official international Polaris flight next week from San Francisco to Hong Kong, which is part of the airline’s refreshed push for premium cabin business. The airline has partnered with Saks Fifth Avenue for new inflight bedding, including mattress pads and cooling gel pillows.
But before guests hit the sack, they can partake in a new dine-on-demand menu (the most robust offering of its kind for a North American airline) with dishes like lobster macaroni and cheese and tomato soup with grilled cheese. The Asian fusion chicken noodle soup with coconut milk is already getting rave reviews on its domestic trial runs. On the beverage front, morning flights feature a bespoke Bloody Mary cart, the option to enjoy wine flights on multi-tiered stands to taste as many varietals as are on the menu, and a new coffee menu from famed Italian espresso brand Illy.
In fact, Illy coffee is also available on United’s domestic flights for all passengers, and it comes with a sweet Dutch stroopwafel perfect for dunking. Delta serves Starbucks brews on both domestic and international flights to all passengers.
Hotels and airlines learn from each other
While airlines and hotels have used brands such as Illy and Starbucks products before, it is nice to see your favorite brands both in the sky and on the ground when you reach your destination. Starwood’s Le Meridien doesn’t want its travelers to wake up on the other side of the world without the right coffee. Le Meridien hired both a “global latte artist” and a “global master barista” who travel the globe training its hotel baristas and staff on how to make the perfect cup of coffee. Many Le Meridien baristas are even sent to Illy’s “coffee university” at its Trieste, Italy, headquarters.
According to global master barista Franz Xaver Zauner, there more than 100 ways that a cup of coffee can be spoiled in its preparation, and his role is to prevent each of those mistakes from happening. If you are wondering how United plans to combat those mistakes in the air, its flight attendants underwent similar training procedures to deliver the perfect Illy cup. The same type of training is important at Cathay Pacific, which serves Illy espresso and cappuccino in the air; it is also launching the first airport lounge Chinese teahouse concept at its Hong Kong hub.
Lufthansa is taking a page out of many hotel playbooks and has set up Nespresso stations at its gates in Frankfurt and Munich so that passengers can purchase premium coffee while they wait.
And if you think you’ve seen it all . . .
Sure, toque-wearing chefs roam the aisles of Austrian and Turkish Airlines among others, but airlines are still discovering ways to impress their customers. KLM serves draft beer from a specially designed cart with the proper pressure pumps to get the carbonation just right. The Dutch Heineken recipe uses the same ingredients as what you might find in a bar or grocery store and is said to taste just as refreshing above the clouds. It is available in business class on select intercontinental flights.
South of the equator, Brazilian carrier Azul is partnering with a Sao Paulo–based food truck provider for its new onboard menu. The airline serves meals from the popular Buzina Food Truck to all passengers on its flights to the United States and Portugal, with dishes including artisan cheeseburgers and grilled macaroni and cheese.
On American Airlines, passengers in first and business class need not stress that their preferred choice won’t be available—its website allows travelers to preorder meals similar to what Finnair, Singapore Airlines, Thai Airways, and others have long offered. Delta Air Lines is finalizing plans to launch a similar system so that a customer’s first choice is ready and waiting once he or she is inflight.
And forget leaving the lounge to head into the terminal for your favorite specialty coffee drink. Emirates is launching small Costa Coffee outlets in some of its lounges to bring the coffee chain’s barista service and full menu directly to its premium customers.
#travel #traveltips #airlinetravel #airlinefood #travelingcynthia
Friday, March 17, 2017
"If you're lucky enough to be Irish,
you're lucky enough."
#happystpatricksday #travel #travelingcynthia #irishquote
Saturday, February 25, 2017
Do you enjoy longish layovers? While I doubt your answer is "yes," my recent Nashville plane change while in route to San Diego from Orlando resulted in two memorable hours -- complete with hot chicken (a local specialty) and live music (another local specialty) -- courtesy of lunch in the terminal's Gibson restaurant and the talent of local musicians, Alyssa Jacey and Adam Rausche.
#travel #traveltips #travelpics #travelingcynthia #nashville #nashvilleairport #alyssajacey #adamrausche
Photos by Cynthia Dial
#travel #traveltips #travelpics #travelingcynthia #nashville #nashvilleairport #alyssajacey #adamrausche
Tuesday, February 14, 2017
Written for Cynthia Dial for JustLuxe.com
Known as the month of Mardi Gras, February is the time of the year when revelry rules. As one of the world's best known celebrations - a fete easily recognized by its signature purple, green and gold colors - this fun-for-all event is incomparable when combined with the southern comfort of Mobile.
As the setting of 6,000 buildings on the National Historic Registry and best known for the most gracious of greetings, this Alabama town is strictly southern - locals pronounce its name in three soothing syllables, the city flower is the azalea and the region playfully lays claim to three seasons – hurricane season, college football season and Mardi Gras season. Though established in 1702 by the French (its Dauphin Street is named for the son of Louis XIV), Mobile is a town where people politely address you with the prefix “Miss” or “Mister” before your first name and strangers smile at you ‘just because.’
The belles of the balls are its leading men and women, adorned in extravagant royal trains (custom designed with family crests, crystals, stones, fur and an elaborate imagination) and accompanied by their respective courts. So majestic are these evenings it’s been said that it's been said that should a guest question the effort required to attend, doubts are dispelled as quickly as beluga disappears from a silver serving platter.
Paying homage to themes for everyone are the day-after-day and night-after-night parades, complete with marching bands, over-the-top floats and thousands of throws (from beads to doubloons to stuffed animals to Moon Pies). Locally-shared paradegoer tips are straight forward. Parade observers: the best viewing is from balconies (many hotels allow guests to use theirs); don’t jump parade barricades (the fine is $298); to get the most throws go to the parade’s end and carry signs, especially those with a bullseye (they are like magnets for throws). Parade walkers: be prepared (if right handed, put the beads on your left arm so you’re ready to toss); keep up with your group (so as not to get run over); look where you are going (there’s lots of loot on the ground for prime-time tripping) and don’t forget to enjoy – you will feel like a rock star.
To best understand Mobile and its relationship with Mardi Gras, visit the Mobile Carnival Museum. Located in a restored mansion, this multi-room exhibition is replete with showcases of majestic crowns, resplendent scepters and bejeweled robes, as well as an in-depth history of Mardi Gras and its true birthplace – all shared with in-depth knowledge and a bit of good humor. When asked the approximate cost of a train for the Royal Court, the reply is classic Mobilian – “Oh honey, where are you from? We don’t talk about money here.” (Official answer: It can be as little as an SUV or as much as a small house.)
Located along downtown’s parade route is The Battle House Hotel – a coveted selection of accommodation during Mardi Gras. Originally opened in 1852, the hotel overflows with history. It sits on site of Andrew Jackson’s headquarters during the War of 1812 and Stephen Douglas was a hotel guest the night he lost the 1860 presidential election to Abraham Lincoln. Destroyed by a fire and survivor of three hurricanes, The Battle House was closed for disrepair from 1974 till 2007 when it reopened as a renovated masterpiece – a reputation it retains to this day.
Mobile’s assortment of mansions – its antebellum homes surrounded by live oaks, magnolias and camellias – provides yet another peek into the city’s resplendent yesteryear. Built in 1855 is Bragg-Mitchell Mansion whose circular staircase, crystal chandeliers and fine antiques serve to “remind guests of a time when hospitality was a way of life.” And on the National Register of Historic Places is Oakleigh Plantation, built in 1833 by a wealthy cotton broker.
Beyond Mardi Gras, its back-in-the-day accommodations and its historied past is also a city where favorite food spots spill over- from off-the-beaten-path dives to difficult-to-get reservation restaurants.
Beginning with basics is Panini Pete’s – named Mobile’s Best Lunch Spot and known for its signature paninis and wet beignets (“Pete’s awesome twist on a classic French Donut! Made from scratch and served with a lemon wedge.”). Self-described as “good times made from scratch,” Cream & Sugar Café is the place to go for homemade scones and Conecuh sausage biscuits.
Established in 1938, Wintzell’s Oyster House has long been the place for oysters – fried, stewed and nude – and listed in the culinary guide “100 Dishes to Eat in Alabama Before You Die.” Nearby is Miss Ruby’s Spot of Tea, known for its most-Southern-of-belle’s proprietor, Miss Ruby Moore, and such signature dishes as Eggs Cathedral and Banana’s Foster French Toast – both listed in “100 Dishes.”
Found at the top of the list, as well as at the top of Mobile, is Dauphin’s. Located on the 34th floor of the Trustmark Bank Building, this restaurant creation of Chef Steve Zucker and owner Bob Baumhower (of Miami Dolphins’ fame) serves contemporary coastal cuisine. But its best offering is found at its chef’s table – an in-the-kitchen tabletop with an over-the-city view. The Battle House’s Trellis Room has the distinction of being Mobile’s only AAA Four Diamond Restaurant and is known for such creative classics as pimento cheese hush puppies and rabbit pot pie.
Photos by Cynthia Dial
While the date of Mardi Gras varies from year to year (Mardi Gras 2017 is February 28), an inescapable constant is Mobile's welcoming excitement. From arrival, it's apparent this is a city that's jazzed you are there - a city that lets the good times roll and roll and roll!
#travel #traveltips #travelingcynthia #travelpics #mardigras #mobilemardigras #mardigras2017